My Biking Blog: July 2017

It’s 7am and 5 deg on July 2 at Le Bourg D’Oisans and there are 7,500 cyclists arranged into starting “pens” at the centre of the town ready to tackle The Marmotte. I was just amazed to see so many cyclists in one place – every one of them probably wondering, like me, whether they had done enough to get them over the three huge climbs and to the bottom of Alpe D’Huez before the cut-off time of 630pm, so they can make the 13km climb to the finish and complete the 175km course..

The first 10-15km are ridden at a frantic pace with riders trying to improve their position on the flat roads in the valley before the start of the first climb to Col du Glandon. From the dam wall I can see 100s of cyclists coming up on the switchbacks at Lac du Verney near Allemont.

The first 10km of the Glandon climb is just a complete traffic jam of cyclists. Everyone is trying to claim their little piece of the narrow road. Once through the small village of La Riviere d’Allemont, there is a brief respite (to quote Phil Liggett) with a descent for 2-3kms and then back on the pedals again for the final 10km to the top. At the dam wall of the Lac de Grand Maison, which is about 5km from the top, the scenery changes from forest to true alpine open meadows, and rocky peaks. You get that exhilarating feeling of being in the high mountains. All the roads to this point, and to the bottom of the descent of the Glandon, are closed to vehicles.

At top of the Col du Glandon the clouds close in and the temperature drops down to 5-6 deg. The timing of the event stops at this point as the initial descent toward the Maurienne Valley is on a steep narrow road. The aim is to reduce the risk of riders attempting to descend too fast and cause a serious accident. At the summit everyone stops to get prepared for the cold descent - extra layers, wind jackets and balaclavas are donned.

The descent offers little in the way of views for the first 5km until we emerge from the fog which engulfed the upper sections. The group I descend with is following an ambulance. The pace is controlled and quite safe. I can see why this section is considered to be dangerous on an event like the Marmotte. There are still the occasional riders “bombing” this section, on wet roads, at faster speeds. Once down onto the lower sections, the gradient is not as steep, and most riders are confident enough to pick up the pace. At the bottom of this 25km descent, many of the riders stop to rest and remove layers before the timing starts again.

Once at the valley floor, the route follows major roads (not all are closed), from St Jean de Maurienne to St Michel de Maurienne, and the start of the climb to the Col du Telegraphe. The trick here is to find a group riding just above your speed and try and hold the wheel in front of you for the length of the flatter section (about 15-20km).

Riders often say that the Col du Telegraphe is just a short prelude to the Galibier, and not really a true test. It rises from 700m to over 1500m in altitude over 12km with an avg grade of around 7%, so it certainly qualifies as a challenge on the bike in my book! The field is now starting to spread out and the riders who have come prepared for this event are clearly making better progress than some of those who haven’t.

After crossing the Telegraphe, the fast descent on fairly straight roads into Valloire is a great chance for recovery. At this point I am getting pretty hungry and not sure how much further the lunch stop is from Valloire. So I decide to take a break in Valloire and grab a baguette and coke/coffee. This is probably the best decision I make on the day, as it gives me enough of a break and food to get me to the top of the Galibier where I can grab a drink and some gels and bars from the STI guys who have a feed station there. I stop briefly at the Marmotte official lunch stop just 3km outside Valloire, where they have plenty of fruit, fruit buns, bars, drinks etc. I think I enjoy the ham and cheese baguette more…

As we climb the Galibier, the field is really starting to thin out. Riders who are perhaps guilty of going too hard on the early part of the course are now paying the price. The last 6 kms of the Galibier averages 7-8%, with the last km at over 10%. It is such a relief to turn that last pedal stroke over the top! A spare kit is waiting for me in the STI van at the Galibier. I am able to get into some dry gear before the cold descent from the Galibier (2642m altitude). The small area at the top of the Col is packed with riders resting after the climb and putting on wind jackets and taking on more food and drink. Once I have negotiated my way through to that famous “Col du Galibier” sign for the obligatory summit photo, it is onto the classic descent to the Col du Lautaret and the Lac du Chambon. On a clear day as you scoot down the first two or three switchbacks and past the Henri Desgrange monument you feel like you are on top of the world as the look down the Vanoise Valley. High snowy peaks disappearing into the clouds on either side as the road ahead snakes down the hillsides below you.

By this time its 3pm and the descent is fast and I quickly feel the temperature start to rise as I get lower down. Through the Col du Lautaret and toward Villar D’Arene the roads start to open up and the surface is good so I can really fly. It’s an opportunity to gain time as the descent is almost 40km in length, so many of the riders are hitting their top speeds on the course. It’s also a chance to take on more fluids and food ready for the climb of Alpe D’Huez at the finish. Through La Grave the temp is getting up to 22 deg. We start a short climb up around the narrow road that follows the southern side of Lac du Chambon, and heaps of clothing can be seen discarded beside the road. Wind jackets, gilets, long fingered gloves, shoe covers etc. are just left on the side of the road. Expensive rubbish!

So I arrive at the bottom of the Alpe at around 545pm and make the cut-off. Phew! Then the final punishment – 12km and avg 9% gradient! Many struggle, like me, on the early parts of the climb. The Alpe doesn’t allow any “warm-up”. The first few kms are at 11%!

Sometimes the physical effort needed to keep going is eclipsed by the overwhelming mental desire to end the pain. The evidence of this is seen on the faces of most of the riders climbing the Alpe at this late stage of the day! Some can be seen sitting on the side of the road cursing the cramps which have immobilised them. I set my mind on reaching the next hairpin and count the numbers as I reach each one. They start at 21 and you count them down. The corners offer a brief chance to get your rhythm on the pedals again as the grade drops slightly for a few metres.

5km from the finish the cramps start to grab me in the right leg and then on the left side moments later. By this time my speed had dropped from about 9kph on the early part of the climb to 5-6kph. I know if I stop there will be little chance that the cramps will let me get going again. So with the mantra “what doesn’t kill you, only makes you stronger!” running through my mind I crunch my way through the cramps and keep turning the pedals over the final few kms.

I manage to cross the finish line just after 715pm and have never felt such a sense of relief on the bike! I have done longer rides before and perhaps in more challenging conditions, however the climb on the Alpe after 160kms across some of the highest roads in France is just a total killer.

After collecting my timing certificate, Marmotte finisher’s cap, a pasta meal and drink, I hobble back to the hotel to join the rest of our STI group and share the stories of the day over a few very well deserved beers! All up a challenging but rewarding event, with amazing views to help lift your spirits as you work your way over the iconic climbs we see so often on the TV during the TDF!